Our third visiting Noto Peninsula

Written by Yuichiro Mori, Kyoto Brewing Co.

1. Introduction(Why Noto?)
 In mid-July, when record-breaking dry weather caused severe heat waves across the country, I visited Noto once again.

Having participated in volunteer activities in April and October 2024, this was my third visit in about nine months. (Click here for my previous posts about my stays.)

Looking back, my last visit in October was immediately after Noto was hit by unprecedented heavy rains. Signs of severe damage were visible throughout the town, and our activities included not only removing household items damaged by the earthquake, but also continuously shoveling and transporting the mud that had flowed down from the mountains into residential areas. I still clearly remember the despair of the local people in the face of these consecutive natural disasters. Although it was only a few days, the experience impacted me deeply, and although it was unforgettable in a negative way, I was very glad that I had made the decision to go there and to experience the situation in Noto first-hand.

This time around, we also visited Wajima City, a place where we now have many connections. We of course loaded the car up with plenty of beer to distribute. Since the disaster began, we have donated and delivered over 15,000 cans of beer to Noto.

Why beer?
 It’s a fair question. Alcohol is hardly high on the list of essential items in a disaster-struck region.

We debated, on our first visit, whether donating beer may be seen as missing the point entirely. A bunch of guys coming up from a brewery nestled in the safety of Kyoto, completely oblivious to the plight, and unable to read the room. But we have a company purpose, which is “more than just great beer”, and this idea is that we want to have a positive impact on society and the community. Last year, we created a beer called Nozomi, meaning ‘Hope’, with the wish to give people in the disaster-affected areas a moment of respite, and delivered it along with a message. We were very pleased to hear from people of the pleasures in regaining a little sense of normality and daily pleasure, such as the reopening of a handful of local restaurants, and the beer would be a very welcome element of that. Since then, we have continued to deliver limited-edition beers directly or through intermediaries to local residents. This time, we packed as much beer as we could fit into our small private car and departed Kyoto at dawn.

2. Impressions upon arrival
 On the way north along the western side of Lake Biwa, we encountered heavy rain that almost completely blocked our view ahead. However, once we reached the Sea of Japan side, the sky cleared up, and we drove on towards Noto, glancing towards the beautiful coastline.

Along the way, there were some roads under construction and winding detours, but compared to last year, repairs had progressed significantly, and I felt no anxiety while driving. Seeing multiple construction sites progressing simultaneously rather than sequentially, I could really get a sense of how much was getting done here, and I felt a sense of admiration towards the workers labouring hard in the heat. Inspired by the sense of the region's collective determination for recovery, I drove on.

We arrived in Wajima around 10 a.m. and immediately met up with Mr. Shimo from the Ishikawa Prefecture Volunteer Association, who had also assisted us last time. We then toured the city of Wajima for the first time in 10 months. The number of damaged buildings had decreased, and demolition work seemed to have progressed significantly. The iconic seven-storey building that had collapsed sideways was no longer there, having been demolished around October last year. Temporary housing had been set up, and many people were reportedly living there.

It’s not all smooth sailing yet, however. Many disaster victims are facing the difficult decision of whether to rebuild their homes after demolition, which is particularly challenging for the elderly. Even if they decide to rebuild, there is a shortage of construction companies and materials, and it may take several years to complete. The temporary housing offered has a two-year occupancy limit in principle, which will mean many people will be out and without homes to return to. Ishikawa Prefecture is working to extend this, and it is expected that a one-year extension will be granted under certain conditions, which offers some relief, but whether this is even close to being enough is tough to call right now. Overall, I was left feeling that housing remains a major issue, and will do for quite a few years to come yet.

Before I had time to enjoy my reunion with Mr. Shimo, we immediately got into his car and visited local residents with beer from Kyoto Brewing. We visited various sites, including fisheries and forestry workers, disaster waste collectors, and a large woodworking workshop. Despite the suddenness, and the smallness of the gesture, everyone received it very positively, even joking, ‘Let's call it a day here!’ Some people even remembered receiving the ‘Nozomi’ beer last year, and it was a heartwarming moment as I recalled how difficult things had been in Wajima at that time.

3. Activities Underway
 After distributing beer to various locations, we switched to a truck with Mr. Shimo, and helped transport construction debris from demolition and renovation sites to a temporary collection site. Previously, the collection site was located in the coastal area, but now a larger-scale collection site has been established within the ‘Kenko no Mori’ campground facility. The debris was sorted into detailed categories, and the handling of the continuously arriving dump trucks was impressively systematic and efficient.

On the second day, we first registered as volunteers at the Wajima City Mutual Aid Centre tent before being divided into groups based on the activities. As part of an 8-person group, I was assigned to a mission to retrieve the belongings of a father and grandfather from a warehouse in a residential area slightly removed from the main town.

The house was located in an area rich in nature, and with lush green rice paddies. A sturdy warehouse stood beside it. The entrance was blocked from the result of debris from fallen earthen walling caused by the earthquake. We forced open the door, which was over 10 centimetres thick, in a way one might see in a scene from an action movie. We carried out the contents using a bucket relay, covered in sweat and dust. Among the items were letters and ornaments left by the house owner’s grandfather in the family, who had passed away during the war, addressed to his family. A sense of relief was evident on his face at the time of their safe return, giving us a sense of value in our work, and bringing a sense of camaraderie to the group.

With renewed energy, the eight of us returned to the headquarters and headed out on our next mission. We transported fallen leaves and wood debris from a local shrine to the collection site we had visited earlier. We split into several light trucks, efficiently loaded the debris in about 30 minutes, and left the shrine grounds clean.

The man who rode in the truck I was driving was a dentist from Nagano Prefecture. He enthusiastically shared stories about volunteer activities across Noto and memorable incidents, and his energy further lifted our spirits. As a dentist, he also provided oral care consultations for disaster victims during breaks in the activities, and his thoughtfulness, and keenness to help in any way he could, deeply impressed me. Later, he would send me detailed reports and newspaper clippings about Noto.

On the third day, we worked with members of the NGO reconstruction support group ‘Ligare’ and students from Meiji Gakuin University. Our task was to rescue wood used for Wajima lacquerware from a dilapidated warehouse. A vast number of boards were stacked precariously like Jenga pieces, and we carefully removed them one by one using a bucket relay. As we progressed with the work, light began to shine into the warehouse, and it gradually transformed into a clean and orderly space.

The students' bright voices and energy enlivened the site, making the work feel easier despite the intense heat. During the lunch break, they planned to serve drip coffee they had brought with them to the people of the town.

The wood we had removed from the warehouse was the raw material used for Wajima lacquerware. Even to the untrained eye, it was clear that each board was made of high-quality wood with a beautiful grain. Shimo-san and I visited Aizasa Woodcraft on the first day, and saw the many wonderful products from carefully selected wood, including many beautiful plates and trays. To those unaware, lacquerware is Wajima’s most famous artisanal industry, with “Wajima-nuri” being renowned nationwide.

When the earthquake struck last year, the materials stored in the large lumber warehouse collapsed, and the processing machinery was also severely damaged, making it impossible to continue production for quite some time. With support from all over the country, the warehouse has now been almost completely restored to its original state, and production has since resumed.

The fact that the heart of Wajima's craftsmanship has overcome such adversity and continues to thrive is a real key, and a source of hope for the local community. The belief in the future of this town is in many ways reliant, but economically and symbolically, by the recovery of its cultural heritage. For those interested, there is also a beautiful gallery displaying their refined products, which we highly recommend to anyone making the trip out to Wajima. Giving our beer to the workshop staff, and seeing them happily accept it, was something that in turn made us happy, of course, and was also an honour.

Aizawa Woodwork's website: https://www.aizawa-wood.jp/

4. Introduction of ‘Ligare’
The official volunteer activities in Wajima City are currently being scaled back, and advance online registration is required for only two days a week, Friday and Saturday. However, there is a limit to the number of participants each day, and the slots fill up quickly, so many people are forced to give up participating.

Furthermore, it seems that the acceptance of work requests (needs) from citizens to the local government ended at the end of May.

Amidst this situation, a new organisation named Ligare was established in October last year to address the needs that the administrative volunteer centre could not fully handle—even starting from those who don’t know who to ask for help, and those hesitating to speak up from their own side.

‘Ligare’ means ‘to connect’ in Latin, and under the philosophy of connecting people and communities, as well as people with one another, the organisation continues its activities, and is deeply engaged in the reconstruction of Wajima, as well as the rebuilding of citizens' lives. What was particularly impressive was that the members are actively learning skills to enhance their on-site response capabilities, and increasing what each individual can do. For example, even something as simple as covering a damaged roof with a blue tarp requires knowledge and expertise, but they are proactively acquiring such skills and taking action.

As an organisation formed by the citizens of the disaster-affected area themselves, their goal is self-sufficiency, and ensuring that they are in a position to protect their own town themselves, rather than waiting for external support.

For more details on their activities and support work, please visit the link below. Donations to support their activities are also accepted, and to our minds is an exceptionally worthy cause.

Ligare Disaster Recovery Support Organisation Website: https://wajimaligare.net/

5. Final thoughts
After several days of activities, I left Wajima recalling the faces and words of the people I had met there. From the locals, I could sense a deep love for the city and region of Wajima in every word and gesture, which once again made me feel the sincerity of their determination to see the town's recovery. I additionally spent time with someone who, despite living in temporary housing themselves, continues to volunteer almost daily. This left me with a mix of feelings—both a sense of helplessness and a deep admiration for the spirit of mutual support that thrives in disaster-affected areas.

Living far away, opportunities to hear about Wajima and Noto through the media have decreased. However, by actually visiting the town, walking its streets, and talking with people, I was deeply aware that even as we approach the two-year anniversary of the disaster, the wounds have not yet fully healed. At the same time, I once again felt the presence of those who quietly continue to work for others—I have taken to calling them “Moku Moku Jin”, roughly translated as ‘silent workers’, or people who go on with their efforts with a quiet but steely determination—in a very real way.